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Central Europe · Volume 38, The Pepper That Came Late, the Herdsman's Pot and the Coffeehouse

Túrós csusza

Hungary

Túrós csusza, hand torn noodles in bacon fat with curd and sour cream, crisp bacon on top: a deep plate of ragged hand torn pale noodles tossed with crumbled white curd cheese and glossy sour cream, a scatter of crisp golden bacon cubes over the top.

Illustration

Time
1 hour 30

Noodles torn from a rested dough, fried in bacon fat and tossed with curd and sour cream. The recipe is Bíró Lajos's for Magyar Konyha, for four, with every weight; it is a chef's version published in the country's food magazine, and the older curd is the sheep's.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 1 hour 30 minutes, including an hour resting the dough.

Ingredients

  • 250g pastry flour
  • 1 egg
  • 100g water
  • 3g salt
  • 70g smoked bacon, in small cubes
  • 100g curd cheese, túró, or sheep's milk curd
  • 150g sour cream

Method

  1. Mix the flour, egg, water and salt to a firm dough and rest it 1 hour.
  2. Roll it thin and tear it by hand into ragged pieces.
  3. Boil the pieces in salted water about 2 minutes and drain.
  4. Fry the bacon cubes until crisp; lift them out and fry the noodles in the bacon fat.
  5. Toss the noodles with the curd cheese and the sour cream, and serve with the bacon over the top.

What a modern chef changes

The noodle rested longer, the curd warmed

Rung 2

Method

  1. Rest the dough 3 hours in the fridge; it rolls thinner and tears cleaner.
  2. Warm the sour cream and curd together to 60 degrees before they meet the noodles, so the dish is hot through and the curd softens.
  3. Render the bacon slowly from cold for the most fat and the crispest cube.
  4. Grate a little aged sheep's cheese over, which brings the sharpness the sheep's curd had.
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