Cocido Madrileño

As tradition built it

Serves 6. About 5.5 hours simmering, plus an overnight soak for the chickpeas

Ingredients

• 200g tocino
• 3 fresh bones
• 3 ham bones
• 2 chorizo
• 1 codillo (pork knuckle)
• 700g garbanzo de Fuentesaúco or garbanzo pedrosillano chickpeas, soaked overnight in warm water with a little bicarbonate
• 3 carrots
• 3 medium potatoes
• 1 whole cabbage wedge (repollo)
• 200g fine fideos, for the broth
• 2 morcilla, sliced

Method

1. Following Restaurante Malacatín's own named method: simmer the tocino, bones, chorizo and codillo in salted water for 2 hours.
2. Lower the heat and simmer for a further 3.5 hours, skimming periodically to keep the broth clear.
3. Add the soaked chickpeas to the pot with the meats.
4. Add the carrots 1 hour before the end of cooking.
5. Add the potatoes 30 minutes after the carrots.
6. Simmer the cabbage wedge separately or alongside.
7. Serve in three vuelcos: first the strained broth with fine fideos, second the chickpeas, vegetables and potato, third the meats, chorizo and morcilla, sliced.

What a modern chef changes

Staggered sous vide and a clarified broth

Rungs 1 and 2

Method

1. Discard the first boil per rung one, then stagger every component per rung two.
2. Seal the beef and pork knuckle separately under vacuum and hold at a controlled low sous vide temperature for a genuinely even, fall-apart texture no stovetop simmer can match without also overcooking the poultry cooked alongside it in the same pot.
3. Clarify the finished broth with a whisked egg-white raft, a standard consommé technique, passed through a chinois for a "primer vuelco" clear enough to see through the bowl.
4. Finish the chickpeas by sautéing them briefly in a little of the rendered chorizo fat with a pinch of cinnamon before the final plate, a genuine restaurant technique reported from unnamed top Madrid kitchens, sharpening what is otherwise the stew's plainest course.