Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Iberia · Volume 07, The Roast, the Pot and the Acorn Line

Migas Extremeñas

Extremadura

Migas extremeñas, fried breadcrumbs with chorizo and pimentón: a mound of golden, separate-grained fried breadcrumbs deep russet-red from pimentón, studded with dark slices of chorizo and crisp panceta.

Illustration

Time
Hands on 30 minutes · Waiting 8 hours

Extremadura, the shepherd's stale-bread dish, hydration the whole technical question.

As tradition built it

Serves 4 . 20 to 30 minutes frying, plus an overnight soak for the bread

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cube the stale bread and hydrate overnight in warm salted water, then rest.
  2. Fry in olive oil with garlic, green pepper and pimentón de la Vera, adding chorizo and/or panceta.
  3. Stir the bread constantly over the heat until it takes up the rendered fat evenly and turns golden and separate-grained rather than gluey.
  4. Serve with fresh grapes scattered over the top.

What a modern chef changes

Dehydrator-standardised bread and a confit chorizo fat

Rung 5

Method

  1. Standardise the bread's moisture with a controlled overnight dehydrator setting per rung five, rather than judging staleness by eye, for consistent results batch to batch.
  2. Confit the chorizo and panceta separately at a low, controlled temperature before crisping them, rendering their fat more completely and evenly than a hot pan alone achieves.
  3. Fry the bread in that clarified confit fat, not raw olive oil.
  4. Finish with grapes very briefly seared on one side in a dry hot pan, concentrating their sugar against the migas' savoury crunch, a small addition rather than a departure from the traditional pairing.
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