Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Iberia · Volume 09, Gofio, the Guanche Grain Beneath a Castilian Table

Conejo al Salmorejo Canario

Tenerife and Gran Canaria

Conejo al salmorejo canario, wine-marinated rabbit: deeply browned, bone-in rabbit pieces glazed with a dark reduced marinade, arranged on a dark plate beside a small pile of wrinkled salt-crusted potatoes.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
24 hours 40
Researched
4 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Worth stating plainly, since the name invites confusion: Andalusian salmorejo, treated elsewhere in this atlas, is a cold tomato and bread soup. Canarian salmorejo shares nothing with it beyond the word itself; here it names a wine-and-vinegar marinade for meat, above all rabbit, and Canarian sources are explicit that the two are simply not the same thing.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. A full 24 hours marinating, then about 40 minutes to cook.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pound the garlic to a paste in a mortar with a good pinch of coarse salt, then work in the cumin and pimentón.
  2. Combine with the wine, vinegar, oil, bay leaf, oregano and thyme.
  3. Coat the rabbit pieces thoroughly in the marinade, seal in a non-reactive container, and refrigerate a full 24 hours, turning once or twice.
  4. Remove the rabbit from the marinade, and fry in hot olive oil until well browned all over, or roast in a hot oven until cooked through and lightly crisped at the edges, basting occasionally with the reserved marinade.
  5. Serve with papas arrugadas.

What a modern chef changes

The marinade's full day of work respected, and the meat cooked with a precision the frying pan alone cannot give it

Rung 4

Method

  1. Sous vide the marinated rabbit at around 65°C for 3 to 4 hours before finishing, so the meat cooks through completely evenly, then finish briefly in a very hot pan or on a Big Green Egg for colour and crust, a genuine improvement on a pan alone, which tends to overcook a lean rabbit's outer layer before the bone-in centre is done.
  2. Reduce the strained marinade separately into a thin sauce while the rabbit cooks, rather than only basting with it raw, concentrating flavour the traditional method leaves diluted in the pan.
  3. Grind your own cumin and dried herbs fresh in a dedicated spice grinder just before use, a small but real difference against pre-ground spice that has already lost much of its aromatic oil.
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