Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Central Europe · Volume 39, The Vinegar Cure, the Seven Herbs and the Butter Letter

Pfälzer Saumagen

The Palatinate

Pfälzer Saumagen, a stuffed pig's stomach of potato, pork and marjoram, sliced and fried, with sauerkraut: thick fried slices of pale stuffed pig's stomach showing dice of potato and pink pork in a firm filling, browned crusts on the cut faces.

Illustration

Time
4 hours

The Palatine dish, documented in a handwritten recipe of 1865 and famous since a chancellor served it. The filling is loose because it swells; the poach is gentle because a boil bursts the stomach. The weights are for a medium stomach, and the simmer runs two to three hours.

As tradition built it

Serves a table. About 3 hours to cook, after an hour to fill.

Ingredients

  • 1 pig's stomach, cleaned
  • 500g waxy potatoes, cut in 1cm dice
  • 500g lean belly pork, diced
  • 500g pork ham, diced
  • 500g bratwurst meat, Brät
  • 2 day old bread rolls, soaked and squeezed
  • 3 eggs
  • to taste pepper
  • to taste nutmeg
  • to taste marjoram
  • to taste salt

Method

  1. Boil the diced waxy potatoes in salted water for 5 minutes and drain them.
  2. Mix the potato with the belly pork, the ham, the sausage meat, the soaked rolls and the eggs, and season the mixture with salt, pepper, nutmeg and marjoram.
  3. Fill the stomach loosely, because the filling expands, and sew or tie it shut.
  4. Simmer it gently in salted water, never at a boil, for about 3 hours; other houses say 2 to 3.
  5. Lift it out, let it rest, and slice it thick; the slices are often fried in butter before they are served, with sauerkraut and bread.

What a modern chef changes

The poach held at a temperature, the slice crisped

Rung 5

Method

  1. Fill the stomach as the tradition does and poach it in a water bath at 80 degrees for four hours with a probe in the centre, pulling it at 72; the gentle simmer the Palatine butcher judged by eye is a number here.
  2. Cool it overnight under a light weight so it slices clean.
  3. Fry the slices in brown butter until the cut face is a crust, and serve them on sauerkraut cooked in Riesling.
  4. A pig's stomach is ordered from a butcher in Britain, with notice; a large sausage casing or a cloth gives a loaf that tastes the same and is not Saumagen.
Open in the atlas: cook mode, scaling and tick off lists