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Central Europe · Volume 39, The Vinegar Cure, the Seven Herbs and the Butter Letter

Handkäs mit Musik

Frankfurt and Hesse

Handkäs mit Musik, small rounds of sour milk cheese in a vinegar, oil, onion and caraway marinade, with bread: two translucent yellow rounds of ripened sour milk cheese on a plate in a thin glossy marinade with diced raw onion and caraway seeds.

Illustration

The cheese is a lean, ripened curd of the Harzer family, hand formed; the Musik is the dressing, and the joke is what the raw onion does to the eater later. The ratios are Küchengötter's, for four cheeses of about 100 g; the recipes stand the cheese anywhere from half an hour to two days, and no source dates the dish.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. The cheese stands in the marinade until it has taken it.

Ingredients

  • 400g Handkäse, ripened sour milk cheese
  • 3 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 6 tbsp neutral oil
  • 1 to 2 tbsp water
  • 2 mild onions, diced
  • 1 tsp caraway seed
  • to taste salt
  • to taste pepper
  • to serve apple wine, in some houses
  • to serve bread
  • to serve butter

Method

  1. Whisk the vinegar, oil and water with salt and pepper, and stir in the diced onion and the caraway seed.
  2. Pour it over the Handkäse and leave it to stand until the cheese has taken the marinade.
  3. Eat it with a knife, on bread and butter, with a glass of Äppler, the apple wine, in some houses.

What a modern chef changes

The cheese made, because Britain does not sell it

Rung 2

Method

  1. Set a lean curd from skimmed milk soured with a mesophilic culture, drain it dry, salt it, form it by hand into flat rounds and ripen them in a proving box at 26 degrees and high humidity for two days until the surface smears; it is the one dish in this chapter that a British cook cannot buy and can make.
  2. Quark dressed the same way gives the taste of the marinade and none of the cheese's bite, and should be called what it is.
  3. Dice the onion and salt it ten minutes before the vinegar, which draws its water and softens the Musik.
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