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Amazonia · Volume 22, Tucupi, Jambu and the River's Own Kitchen

Piracuí bolinhos

Manaus, Amazonas, Brazil

Piracui bolinhos, fried fritters of dried pounded river fish flour and cassava: a small stack of golden brown fried fritters on a dark plate, their broken surface showing a pale, dense interior flecked with herbs.

Illustration

As tradition built it

Piracuí bolinhos

Piracuí is roughly 70% protein by the sources that have analysed it

Ingredients

The tradition's method, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them.

The filling

The coating

To fry

  • lard

Method

  1. Cook the macaxeira and mash it.
  2. Fry the piracuí with onion, coriander and butter.
  3. Mix it into the macaxeira with the cebolinha and the cheese.
  4. Roll the mixture into balls by hand.
  5. Coat them in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs.
  6. Deep fry them in hot lard.

Notes

The method is chef Liane Sá's, of AlToque Amazônico in Alter do Chão, with Luciamar dos Santos Batista, as reported in O Liberal; it gives no quantities. The binder is cooked macaxeira, not cassava flour. The only quantified recipe found is a São Paulo chef's.

What a modern chef changes

Home-dried fish flour, sieved batter

Method

  1. Flake fresh white fish and dehydrate it fully, rather than relying on an imported jar that does not exist in British retail anyway.
  2. Grind it to a genuine flour in a dedicated spice grinder, controlling both the fineness and the salt level the traditional sun-drying method cannot.
  3. Pass the bolinho batter's egg and cassava-flour base through a fine sieve before shaping, for a smoother, more even fritter.
  4. Fry in small batches at a slightly higher, tightly controlled temperature so the crust sets before the fritter can absorb oil.
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