Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

North America · Volume 29, Salmon, Cedar and the Acorn World

Acorn Bread (yuu-pitlaš)

Rumsen and Chochenyo Ohlone territory, San Francisco Bay Area, USA

Acorn bread, yuu-pitlaš, a dense flatbread from fully leached acorn flour: several thick, dense, dark tan flatbread rounds stacked slightly askew, their surface matte and finely textured with small dark flecks.

Illustration

As tradition built it

Acorn Bread (yuu-pitlaš)

Rumsen and Chochenyo Ohlone

Ingredients

The tradition's method, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them.

  • acorns
  • to cover water, for leaching

Method

  1. Follow the genuinely six-month process Louis Trevino (Rumsen Ohlone), co-founder of Café Ohlone by mak-'amham, describes: from the acorn's autumn drop through grinding, curing and leaching in water.
  2. Work the flour until fine enough to pass through the weave of a basket.
  3. Once the flour is fine and fully leached, bake or griddle the dough into a denser bread than the soup's mush, eaten as its own food rather than an accompaniment.

Notes

The Chochenyo Ohlone name for the finished flatbread, yuu-pitlaš, was recovered by Vincent Medina's work reconstructing the Chochenyo language from 1920s and 1930s recordings of its last fluent speakers.

What a modern chef changes

Consistency of drying, not compression of time

Method

  1. Do not propose shortening Trevino's six-month cycle with a dehydrator or any other equipment: the slowness is not a limitation the tradition is waiting to be freed from, it is the actual mechanism by which the flour reaches its finished fineness and flavour.
  2. Where a British kitchen can genuinely help is consistency of drying conditions during the parts of the cycle that call for it: hold a dehydrator at a low, steady temperature rather than leaving the flour in an unheated shed at the mercy of British autumn weather.
  3. Offer this as a practical concession to climate, not an attempt to compress six months into six days.
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