Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mainland Southeast Asia · Volume 38, The Broth and the Banquet

Bánh nậm

Huế

Bánh nậm, flat steamed rice cakes filled with shrimp and pork, wrapped in banana leaf: a few pale flat rice cakes partially unwrapped from their dark green banana leaf parcels, a small pink shrimp pressed into the surface of each.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
1 hour
Researched
9 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Makes about 15. About 1 hour.

Ingredients

An outline, not yet a recipe: the tradition's method with its ingredients named but not weighed. Quantities are being added from sources inside the tradition, lead dishes first.

Method

  1. Dissolve the rice flour in water, season with salt and a little oil.
  2. Cook on the stove, stirring constantly, until the batter thickens into a smooth paste, then take off the heat.
  3. Lay a banana leaf smooth-side up, spoon the paste along its length and spread evenly, top with the shrimp and pork filling.
  4. Fold and pin the two ends shut with a sharpened toothpick or skewer.
  5. Steam about 40 minutes, until cooked through, finishing milk-white, soft and tender with a light banana-leaf aroma.

What a modern chef changes

The stirring stage treated as the real technique, and the banana leaf's aroma protected rather than assumed

Rung 6's colour and portion discipline, applied to a wrapped rather than an open dish

Method

  1. Do not rush the stovetop stirring stage. The paste must thicken fully before it goes onto the leaf, or the finished cake will be gluey rather than smooth; this is a genuinely different failure mode from bánh bèo's steaming judgement, and deserves its own patience.
  2. Use genuinely fresh banana leaf where possible, softened briefly over a flame to make it pliable rather than torn. Frozen leaf, the realistic UK default (see Sourcing below), should be thawed fully and patted dry before use so it wraps cleanly.
  3. Keep the filling proportion modest relative to the wrapper, in keeping with this chapter's whole argument about Huế's miniaturised restraint: a bánh nậm overfilled to Western portion instincts stops being the dish it is.
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