Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mainland Southeast Asia · Volume 41, The Coconut and the Court

Amok trei

Cambodia

Amok trei, a steamed fish curry mousse set inside a folded banana leaf cup: a folded banana leaf cup holding a pale golden orange custard, its surface smooth and just set with a faint sheen of coconut cream pooled at the centre.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
30 minutes
Researched
8 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Freshwater white fish, traditionally snakehead, combined with yellow kroeung and thick coconut cream, lightly thickened with rice flour, and steamed inside a folded, pinned banana leaf cup until it sets to a mousse like, custard firm texture.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 30 minutes, plus making the kroeung.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Bring 150ml coconut cream to a gentle simmer with the rice flour, stirring until it just thickens.
  2. Whisk in the kroeung, egg, fish sauce and palm sugar until smooth.
  3. Fold in the cubed fish.
  4. Fold and pin each banana leaf square into a shallow cup, and divide the mixture between them.
  5. Steam gently, 20 to 30 minutes, until just set to a firm custard. A hard boil will split the mixture and toughen the fish.
  6. Finish with shredded kaffir lime leaf and a spoonful of coconut cream over the top.

Notes

No source consulted for this chapter gave a single, precisely tested ratio for the coconut cream to rice flour to kroeung balance; the figures above are consistent across several sources and should be treated as indicative rather than a tested professional quantity.

What a modern chef changes

The custard logic taken as seriously as a French mousseline.

Rung 3

Method

  1. Run a Big Green Egg at a stable, low dome temperature with a water bath or steamer insert, for far more even, controllable heat than an open wok steamer.
  2. Check for doneness by a gentle wobble at the centre, not a fixed time, the same endpoint test a savoury egg custard uses.
  3. Whisk the coconut cream and kroeung together off the heat before adding the egg, to avoid any risk of the egg beginning to set before the mixture is packed into its leaf.
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