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Mesoamerica · Volume 05, Agave, Birria and the Manila Galleon Coast

Sopa tarasca

Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico

Sopa tarasca, a bean and tomato soup with crisp tortilla and pasilla strips: a wide shallow bowl of smooth, deep terracotta coloured soup, a neat swirl of white cream across the surface, crisp golden tortilla strips and dark curled pasilla chile strips piled in the centre.

Illustration

As tradition built it

Sopa tarasca

Created 1966, La Hostería de San Felipe, Pátzcuaro

Ingredients

  • 4 medium tomatoes
  • 1 onion
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 2 cups (black beans) cooked beans
  • 1/2 tsp epazote
  • 4 cups chicken stock or water
  • 3 ancho chiles, deseeded dried pasilla or ancho chile, fried into strips
  • 2 tortillas, cut into strips tortilla strips, fried
  • to taste cream
  • to taste cotija cheese
  • 1, diced avocado

Method

  1. Roast the tomatoes, onion and garlic on a comal, then blend and cook briefly in a cazuela.
  2. Blend cooked beans with epazote and the chicken stock or water to make a bean sauce, and add it to the tomato base.
  3. Fry the dried pasilla or ancho chile into strips, and fry tortilla strips separately; add both only at serving.
  4. Finish with cream, cotija cheese and avocado.

Notes

Sopa tarasca is a twentieth century restaurant creation, though it draws on genuinely ancestral milpa and lakeshore staples: tomatoes, onion, garlic, beans and chile.

What a modern chef changes

Egg-Roasted Base, Blended Beans, Dehydrated Chile

Method

  1. Roast the tomatoes, onion and garlic in a Big Green Egg run hot and direct rather than on a stovetop comal, a closer approximation of the original comal's own smoky, blistered result than an indoor pan gives.
  2. Blend the bean sauce in a high-power blender, then pass through a chinois for a genuinely silkier finished soup than the traditional blend-and-serve method leaves.
  3. Fry the tortilla strips in small batches at a precisely controlled temperature for an evenly crisp result, rather than the unevenly browned strips a single large batch tends to give.
  4. Dehydrate a portion of the fried pasilla before crumbling it over the top for a more concentrated, less greasy final garnish.
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