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The Andes · Volume 19, The Freeze, the Mine and the Valley Maize

Plato paceño

La Paz, Bolivia

Plato paceño, fried beef, fried cheese, corn, potato and habas: a rustic plate with four distinct mounds, a browned piece of fried beef, a golden slab of fried cheese, a large pale kernel of boiled choclo still on its cob.

Illustration

As tradition built it

Plato paceño

Traced to the 1781 siege of La Paz; eaten today at the Alasita festival, 24 January

Ingredients

The method as the tradition gives it, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them, lead dishes first.

Method

  1. Boil the potato, habas and choclo until tender in their skin and pods.
  2. Fry the cheese and beef until coloured.
  3. Bring the four elements together on one plate, dressed with llajwa.

Notes

No source gives this dish a unified method or a single timing: each element is simply cooked until done on its own terms, so the steps above describe the components rather than a single continuous recipe.

What a modern chef changes

Confit beef, concentrated cheese, charred veg

Method

  1. Confit the beef in the sous vide bath rather than pan-frying it straight.
  2. Finish it hard and fast under the Big Green Egg's direct heat for the same browned crust the traditional fry gives, with none of the toughness a hot pan alone risks on a leaner cut.
  3. Dehydrate a portion of the cheese briefly before frying, concentrating it so the fry produces a firmer, more deeply savoury crust around a still-soft centre.
  4. Serve the habas and choclo lightly charred over direct heat rather than plain-boiled, a real but modest departure from tradition, stated honestly as a change rather than presented as invisible.
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