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The Southern Cone · Volume 26, Coast, Valley and the Mapuche and German South

Charquicán

Southern Chile, Mapuche origin

Charquicán, a mash of dried meat, potato, squash and corn topped with a fried egg: a rustic plate of soft, orange tinted mashed potato and squash flecked with shredded dark dried meat and kernels of corn.

Illustration

Time
1 hour
Researched
Researched from 30 sources in the brief

This dish is the crossover this chapter's own research specifically went looking for, and found: charquicán is southern and Mapuche in origin, not central, whatever its current reach across the whole country implies. The original form used charqui, dried meat, historically guanaco, predating cattle ranching in Chile entirely, with potato and squash among southern indigenous groups, the Spanish later adding cumin and salt.

As tradition built it

Serves 10. About 1 hour.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cook the charqui, or in the modern everyday version minced beef, with potato, green beans, squash, corn and carrot, seasoned with cumin and salt.
  2. Mash together and finish, often, with a fried egg on top. The modern version is genuinely pan-Chilean today, but its documented origin belongs with the south.

What a modern chef changes

Real dehydrated charqui, and a soft sous vide egg

Method

  1. Make real charqui at home rather than substituting minced beef throughout: salt thin-sliced beef and dry it in a dehydrator at a low, controlled temperature until properly leathery, then shred it back in for the dish's actual traditional texture.
  2. Finish with a soft, sous vide egg rather than a fried one, the yolk still fully liquid, cutting through the mash rather than sitting dry on top of it.
  3. Give the finished squash a brief pass of Big Green Egg smoke before it goes into the mash, nodding at merkén's own smoked character without asking the dish to carry a separate condiment on top.
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