Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Caribbean · Volume 45, The Arepa Coast, the Hallaca and the Titoté

Cachapa

The llanos and the centre

Cachapa, a sweet fresh corn pancake cooked on the griddle and folded round queso de mano: a large golden brown corn pancake with a bubbled, caramelised surface folded in half over a thick slab of soft white pulled curd cheese that is melting at the edge.

Illustration

Time
30 minutes

The word is said to be Chaima, kachapa, a kind of sweet arepa, and the dish is placed in central Venezuela, in Miranda; both claims are blogs' and a Cuban reference's. The amounts are Mónica Silva Cárdenas's, from the Venezuelan newspaper 2001; her recipe also takes two eggs and corn flour, which this one leaves out.

As tradition built it

Makes 4. About 30 minutes.

Ingredients

  • 450g fresh sweet corn, cut from the cob
  • 120ml (1/2 cup) milk
  • 1 tbsp sugar, or grated papelón
  • to taste salt
  • as needed butter, for the griddle
  • to serve queso de mano, or a fresh pulled curd cheese

Method

  1. Blend the sweet corn kernels with a little milk, the sugar and salt to a thick, coarse batter.
  2. Butter a hot budare and ladle a round of batter. Cook until bubbles break the surface and the underside is browned, then turn and cook 3 minutes more.
  3. Lay a slab of queso de mano on one half, fold the cachapa over it, and eat it while the cheese softens.

What a modern chef changes

The corn's own starch, and nothing else

Rung 1

Method

  1. Blend half the kernels smooth and leave half coarse, so the cachapa binds on its own starch without flour.
  2. Rest the batter 20 minutes before cooking; the starch swells and the pancake holds.
  3. Cook in brown butter on cast iron and finish each cachapa under a hot grill for a minute, so the top caramelises as the bottom does.
  4. Grate a salted hard cheese over the queso de mano, which brings the salt the sweet corn asks for.
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