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The Andes · Volume 46, The Two Milks, the Azotea and the Covered Pot

Ceviche de camarón, two ways

Tumaco and Buenaventura, and the Ecuadorian coast

Ceviche of the Pacific, shrimp scalded in their shell water and marinated in lime and red onion with azotea herbs: a glass bowl of pink scalded shrimp in a pale red marinade of lime, tomato sauce and shell water with thin feathers of red onion and chopped green herbs.

Illustration

Shrimp scalded in their own shell water and marinated in lime and onion with the azotea herbs: the ceviche of the Pacific coast. It "se distingue de otros ceviches por el uso de las hierbas de azotea en la marinada" (is set apart by the azotea herbs in the marinade), the Ministry says, and its account of an origin in shellfish kept in brine on slow sailing voyages is the Ministry's and undated. Vilma Ramírez gives the shrimp version below, for six, and a piangua version beside it. The Ecuadorian shrimp ceviche boils the shrimp briefly and dresses it with lime, tomato, cebolla paiteña, coriander, often orange and mustard, often with a broth of the heads; recipe pages are its only source here, so it is described and not quantified.

As tradition built it

Serves 6.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Boil the shells briefly in a little water, discard them, and return the water to the heat with salt and pepper.
  2. Drop the shrimp in gradually until they turn red and lift them out with a slotted spoon. Cool the water; it is the base of the ceviche.
  3. Mix the shrimp with the onion, the lime juice, the shell water, salt, pepper, cilantro, tomato sauce and ají.
  4. Marinate in the refrigerator some hours and serve with patacones.

What a modern chef changes

The shell water made the point

Rungs 4 and 6

Method

  1. Roast the shells before they are boiled and reduce the water by half, then chill it: the base tastes of shrimp and is cold when the shrimp meets it.
  2. Scald the shrimp 45 seconds and plunge them into iced water, so they are just set.
  3. Salt the onion feathers 10 minutes ahead and rinse them, which takes the raw edge off without losing the crunch.
  4. Dress at the table and serve within the hour; the long marinade is the tradition's refrigerator and the shrimp is better before it.
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