The Andes · Volume 46, The Two Milks, the Azotea and the Covered Pot
Ceviche de camarón, two ways
Tumaco and Buenaventura, and the Ecuadorian coast

Illustration
- Researched
- Researched from 67 sources in the brief
Shrimp scalded in their own shell water and marinated in lime and onion with the azotea herbs: the ceviche of the Pacific coast. It "se distingue de otros ceviches por el uso de las hierbas de azotea en la marinada" (is set apart by the azotea herbs in the marinade), the Ministry says, and its account of an origin in shellfish kept in brine on slow sailing voyages is the Ministry's and undated. Vilma Ramírez gives the shrimp version below, for six, and a piangua version beside it. The Ecuadorian shrimp ceviche boils the shrimp briefly and dresses it with lime, tomato, cebolla paiteña, coriander, often orange and mustard, often with a broth of the heads; recipe pages are its only source here, so it is described and not quantified.
As tradition built it
Serves 6.
Ingredients
- 450g (1 lb) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined, shells kept
- a little water, to boil the shells
- 3 medium red onions, sliced in feathers
- 120ml (half a pocillo) lime juice
- 3 tbsp chopped cilantro
- 2 tbsp tomato sauce
- to taste salt
- to taste pepper
- to taste ají
- to serve patacones
Method
- Boil the shells briefly in a little water, discard them, and return the water to the heat with salt and pepper.
- Drop the shrimp in gradually until they turn red and lift them out with a slotted spoon. Cool the water; it is the base of the ceviche.
- Mix the shrimp with the onion, the lime juice, the shell water, salt, pepper, cilantro, tomato sauce and ají.
- Marinate in the refrigerator some hours and serve with patacones.
What a modern chef changes
The shell water made the point
Rungs 4 and 6
Method
- Roast the shells before they are boiled and reduce the water by half, then chill it: the base tastes of shrimp and is cold when the shrimp meets it.
- Scald the shrimp 45 seconds and plunge them into iced water, so they are just set.
- Salt the onion feathers 10 minutes ahead and rinse them, which takes the raw edge off without losing the crunch.
- Dress at the table and serve within the hour; the long marinade is the tradition's refrigerator and the shrimp is better before it.