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Korea and Japan · Volume 56, The Haenyeo, the Black Pig and the Kingdom Before Korea

Seonggeguk

Jeju Island

Seonggeguk, sea urchin and seaweed soup: a clear pale broth in a simple bowl, soft dark green seaweed fronds submerged beneath the surface, small vivid orange-gold clusters of sea urchin roe floating just below the waterline.

Illustration

Time
30 minutes

Sea urchin roe simmered with young seaweed. Historically a measure of hospitality, served to honoured guests because the ingredient was rare and haenyeo-dependent.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 30 minutes.

Ingredients

  • 20g dried miyeok (or 100g fresh, blanched and chopped)
  • 1 tsp sesame oil
  • 800ml water or light broth
  • 150g fresh sea urchin roe
  • to taste salt

Method

  1. Soak the dried miyeok in water for 15 minutes, then drain and roughly chop.
  2. Heat the sesame oil in a pot, add the seaweed, and stir-fry briefly, about 1 minute.
  3. Pour in the water or light broth and bring to a simmer. Cook 10 minutes until the seaweed has softened fully.
  4. Gently fold in the sea urchin roe and simmer a further 2 minutes, just enough to warm it through without breaking it down completely.
  5. Season with salt and serve immediately, while the urchin still holds some texture.

What a modern chef changes

The urchin's texture protected with precise, gentle heat.

Rung 4

Method

  1. Warm the sea urchin roe separately, off direct heat, in a bowl set over the simmering broth, rather than adding it straight into the pot, so it is brought only to serving temperature rather than risking overcooking in direct contact with a simmering liquid.
  2. Finish the broth through a fine sieve before the urchin goes in, removing any stray seaweed fragments for a cleaner base the urchin's own flavour can carry.
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