Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mainland Southeast Asia · Volume 61, The Dry Bowl, the Ash Noodle and the Jar Drunk Through a Reed

Bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo

Đà Nẵng and Quảng Nam

Bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo, thin slices of boiled pork with skin and fat, soft rice sheets and rice paper, a heap of herbs and a bowl of mắm nêm: a large round tray with fanned thin slices of pale boiled pork with their fat and skin, a stack of soft white rice sheets and dew softened rice paper.

Illustration

Time
55 minutes

The Đà Nẵng set. The two ends of the pork, with their sweet fatty skin, are the prized slices. The mắm nêm is thinned, sweetened and sharpened with garlic, chilli, pineapple and lime. The pork is Bùi Thủy's on VnExpress, for four to six; the dip is Võ Mạnh Lân's in Thanh Niên, for six, with the lime from a reader's recipe.

As tradition built it

Serves 4 to 6. About 55 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Boil the pork belly or leg gently until just cooked, cool it, and slice it thin, keeping the skin and fat on each slice.
  2. Make the dip: mix the mắm nêm with crushed pineapple, chopped garlic and chilli, sugar and lime, and thin it with a little water to taste.
  3. Lay a bánh tráng phơi sương flat, a sheet of bánh ướt on it, then the lettuce, basil, perilla, bean sprouts, cucumber and unripe banana and the pork, and roll it tight.
  4. Dip and eat.

What a modern chef changes

The pork pressed, the dip balanced by weight

Rung 1

Method

  1. Cook the belly in a bag at 70 degrees for 10 hours, press it overnight under a weight and slice it cold on a machine, thin enough to see through; the skin and fat stay with every slice, which the boiled joint cannot promise.
  2. Blend the dip and pass it through a chinois so it coats and does not drip; weigh the pineapple to the mắm so the second batch tastes like the first.
  3. Steam the soft sheets to order on cloth and serve them within minutes; the dew softened paper is bought, not made.
  4. Soak the unripe banana slices in salted water so they stay white and lose their bite.
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