Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mainland Southeast Asia · Volume 61, The Dry Bowl, the Ash Noodle and the Jar Drunk Through a Reed

Bánh xèo tôm nhảy

Quy Nhơn, Bình Định

Bánh xèo tôm nhảy, a palm sized crisp golden rice pancake with small whole shrimp and bean sprouts, with mustard greens and lettuce to wrap: several small crisp golden pancakes the size of a palm, each with pink shell on shrimp and bean sprouts caught in the batter.

Illustration

The jumping shrimp pancake of the Thị Nại lagoon, dated to the 1960s and 1970s by unnamed elders in tourism copy. The quantities are a national health paper's, with coconut water and cornflour in the batter, a home cook's adaptation of the pancake.

As tradition built it

Makes about 8 small pancakes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Whisk the rice flour, cornflour, coconut water, water, salt and sugar to a thin batter and rest it.
  2. Season the shrimp lightly and leave them 10 minutes.
  3. Heat a small pan until the oil smokes. Drop in a few shrimp, which jump, then pour over a thin layer of batter and scatter on bean sprouts.
  4. Cook a few minutes until the edge is crisp and lifts; fold it and slide it out.
  5. Wrap each pancake in mustard greens and lettuce and eat it with a sweet sour fish sauce dip.

What a modern chef changes

The batter rested, the pan hot enough to count

Rung 4

Method

  1. Rest the batter an hour so the rice flour hydrates, and thin it again before the pan; a thick batter gives a thick pancake, and this one is thin and crisp.
  2. A small carbon steel pan at 220 degrees, oiled each time, poured in a single circle; the crisp is contact and nothing else.
  3. Shrimp that are dead and cold will not jump but will still be right if they are small, shell on and cooked in the oil before the batter.
  4. Grill the mustard greens for ten seconds a side on the Egg before wrapping, which the tradition does not do and which the pancake takes well.
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