Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mesoamerica · Volume 02, Achiote, the Pib and the Lebanese Table

Marquesitas

Yucatán, Mexico

Marquesitas, a crisp rolled wafer filled with shredded Edam: a thin, tightly rolled golden wafer resting diagonally on the board, one end left open to show pale shredded cheese just visible inside.

Illustration

Time
1 hour
Researched
Researched from 26 sources in the brief

As tradition built it

Marquesitas

Makes 12 · 1 hour

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cook the wafer batter into a thin, crisp wafer and roll it.
  2. Fill with shredded queso de bola.
  3. In modern versions, add condensed milk, Nutella or fruit.

What a modern chef changes

Dehydrated cheese, sous vide condensed milk, direct-heat caramelisation

Method

  1. Dehydrate a portion of the shredded queso de bola briefly before folding it in, concentrating its savoury edge against the wafer's sweetness.
  2. Make a version of condensed milk in-house by reducing full-fat milk slowly and gently, sous vide at a controlled low temperature over several hours, for a cleaner, less cloying result than a tinned version.
  3. Finish the rolled wafer briefly under direct Big Green Egg heat rather than a domestic grill, for real, fast caramelisation on the exterior in the seconds before the cheese inside can overmelt.
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