Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Caribbean · Volume 13, The Pilón, the Colony and the Frontier

Pasteles

Puerto Rico

Pasteles, Puerto Rican plantain and pork parcels steamed in banana leaf: a single unwrapped banana leaf parcel, the leaf peeled back to reveal a smooth golden orange masa parcel, one corner broken open to show a dark seasoned pork filling with a raisin and an olive visible inside.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
3 hours
Researched
Researched from 23 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Pasteles

Serves 6 (makes about a dozen) . 3 hours

Ingredients

An outline, not yet a recipe: the tradition's method with its ingredients named but not weighed. Quantities are being added from sources inside the tradition, lead dishes first.

Method

  1. Make the dough from grated green banana, yautía, calabaza and batata, bound and coloured with achiote oil and adobo, occasionally loosened with a little broth.
  2. Make the filling: pork picadillo with olives, raisins and chickpeas, a dish that visibly layers all three founding traditions in one parcel, Taíno starches and ají, Spanish pork and olives, African-introduced banana and technique.
  3. Wrap a portion of dough and filling in banana leaf and tie with kitchen string; parchment paper is a common home substitute for the leaf itself.
  4. For about a dozen pasteles, boil in a pot of roughly 5 litres of water to 3½ tablespoons of salt; fresh pasteles boil 35 to 40 minutes, frozen ones 45 to 50, turned halfway through.

What a modern chef changes

A gentler steam, a concentrated batata

Method

  1. Steam the wrapped pasteles in a Big Green Egg run as an oven with a water pan, rather than fully submerging them in a boiling pot, for a gentler, more even cook that keeps the banana leaf's aroma in the parcel rather than leaching it into the water.
  2. Dehydrate a portion of the grated batata before folding it back into the dough, concentrating its sweetness against the more savoury yautía and banana rather than letting the batata's natural moisture dilute the whole dough.
  3. Clarify the reserved broth used to loosen the dough through a chinois, for a cleaner base flavour with none of the starch cloudiness a straight simmer leaves behind.
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