Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Caribbean · Volume 13, The Pilón, the Colony and the Frontier

Arroz con gandules

Puerto Rico

Arroz con gandules, Puerto Rican rice with pigeon peas: a mound of golden orange rice studded with pale green pigeon peas and dark olives, a few strands of ham visible throughout.

Illustration

Time
45 minutes
Researched
Researched from 23 sources in the brief

As tradition built it

Arroz con gandules

Serves 6 to 8 . 45 minutes

Ingredients

Method

  1. Sauté the ham and onion 5 to 8 minutes until the ham browns and the onion softens.
  2. Stir in sazón, achiote, adobo, oregano, cilantro or recao and a little cayenne, and cook a further 2 to 3 minutes until fragrant.
  3. Add the tomato paste, gandules and olives.
  4. Stir the rice through, reduce the liquid to a simmer, cover, and cook 20 to 25 minutes until tender and fully absorbed.

Notes

The achiote's colour is the dish's own signature, a yellow-orange distinct from a plain white rice with beans stirred through.

What a modern chef changes

Fresh-ground achiote, a deliberate pegao

Rung 05

Method

  1. Toast the achiote seeds briefly and grind them fresh in the spice grinder rather than relying on a pre-ground sazón, for a cleaner, less muddy colour and a more distinct pepper note.
  2. Cook the ham separately sous vide before it is browned, so the final sauté step is purely about colour and aroma rather than trying to cook the meat through in the same few minutes.
  3. Finish the pot, once the liquid is absorbed, under the closed lid of a hot Big Green Egg for a few minutes rather than off the heat, deliberately building the pegao crust at the bottom rather than leaving it to chance.
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