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The Caribbean · Volume 15, Salt, Spice and the Limestone Coast

Bajan Black Cake

Barbados

Bajan black cake, a dark rum soaked Christmas fruit cake: a dense, near black slice of fruit cake standing on its side on a white plate, its cut surface densely packed with dark soaked fruit and glistening slightly.

Illustration

As tradition built it

Bajan Black Cake

Barbados's Christmas fruit cake, baked 2 to 3 hours after the fruit's long rum soak

Ingredients

The method as the tradition gives it, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them, lead dishes first.

Method

  1. Soak the raisins, currants, cherries and prunes (a pound of each in a representative full recipe) in rum, port or brandy for anywhere from a week to several months; some households keep the same soaking jar going for a full year or longer.
  2. Pulverise the soaked fruit to a paste.
  3. Make the browning: burn sugar deliberately to near blackness and thin it with water.
  4. Fold the browning in last alongside a pound each of butter and dark brown sugar, six eggs and a pound and a half of flour.

Notes

The quantities above are drawn from cross-checked recipe convention rather than a single named Bajan cookbook author, a gap this chapter says is worth closing in a future edition.

What a modern chef changes

Discipline Over Technique

Rung 04

Method

  1. Soak the fruit properly and for long enough, in a real, additive-free Barbadian rum rather than a heavily sugared commercial one, since added sugar changes both the preservation chemistry and the final sweetness balance of the finished cake.
  2. Dry a portion of the soaked fruit briefly in a dehydrator before blitzing, concentrating its flavour rather than adding further liquid to an already wet batter.
  3. Burn the sugar for the browning in small batches over direct Big Green Egg heat rather than on a domestic hob, for a more even, controllable caramelisation short of bitterness.
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