Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

North America · Volume 35, Tex-Mex, the Rio Grande and the Desert Southwest

Sopapillas

New Mexico

Sopapillas, puffed fried dough split open with honey: a few golden, hollow puffed pillows of fried dough piled on a plate, one torn open to show the steam filled hollow inside.

Illustration

Time
Hands on 30 minutes · Waiting 15 minutes

Puffed, hollow fried dough, torn open and drizzled with honey, or served savoury alongside a chile-sauced meal. A Cozy Kitchen

As tradition built it

Makes about 16. About 30 minutes, plus 15 minutes resting.

Ingredients

  • 500g plain flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 4 tsp baking powder
  • 2 tbsp vegetable oil, rubbed in
  • 300ml warm water and milk, mixed
  • enough for deep frying, at least 5cm deep oil, for deep frying
  • a drizzle honey, to serve

Method

  1. Combine the flour, salt and baking powder, rub in the oil by hand, then work in the warm water and milk to a soft, slightly sticky dough.
  2. Knead vigorously for about 1 minute, then rest, covered with a damp cloth, for 15 minutes.
  3. Roll to about 6mm thick and cut into rough squares or triangles.
  4. Heat the oil to 180°C in a deep pan. Fry one piece at a time: as it hits the oil, press down gently with a slotted spoon to trap steam inside, then release once it starts to puff and bob.
  5. Spoon hot oil over the top for a few seconds until fully puffed, then flip and cook until golden all over. Drain, and serve warm, split open, with honey drizzled inside.

What a modern chef changes

The steam-trapping moment, made consistent rather than a matter of feel.

Rung 6

Method

  1. Cut the dough into perfectly even squares using a pasta roller and a sharp cutter, rather than by hand, so every piece puffs at the same rate for a consistent batch.
  2. Hold the fry oil at a precise 180°C with an immersion circulator-controlled element, removing the guesswork that causes an uneven puff across a home hob's fluctuating heat.
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