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Persia and the Caucasus · Volume 10, Rice, Reduction and the Country Beyond the Kebab House

Sholeh Mashhadi

Mashhad, Khorasan

Sholeh mashhadi, a slow cooked lamb and four bean porridge spiced with cinnamon and ginger: a wide bowl of thick, coarse porridge in a warm brown, beans and shredded lamb broken down into a soft spoonable mass, a scatter of crisp fried onion piled on top.

Illustration

Time
11 hours

As tradition built it

Serves 4. Legumes soaked overnight, then about 3 hours to cook.

Ingredients

Method

  1. The next day, simmer the diced meat with the chopped onion in plenty of water for thirty minutes.
  2. Add the drained chickpeas, white beans, pinto beans and mung beans, soaked separately overnight, and continue simmering, two to three hours over low heat, until the meat has broken down and the legumes have softened toward a coarse mash.
  3. Stir in the cinnamon, black pepper, ginger, nutmeg, salt and oil in the final twenty minutes.
  4. Serve hot with a garnish of gheimeh, fried dried onion, sangak bread, cheese and fresh herbs alongside.

What a modern chef changes

Method

  1. Cook the meat separately sous vide, low and slow, until tender, then shred rather than dissolve it into the legume mixture, for a dish with genuine textural definition between the meat and the beans rather than the traditional long simmer's uniform softness.
  2. Toast the whole spices, cinnamon bark, cardamom, whole ginger, briefly before grinding fresh in a dedicated spice grinder, rather than relying on a pre-mixed, months-old spice tin.
  3. Serve the fried onion garnish freshly made and still warm, rather than the shelf-stable, pre-fried version many households keep on hand, for a genuinely sharper contrast against the dish's long-cooked base.
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