Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Persia and the Caucasus · Volume 10, Rice, Reduction and the Country Beyond the Kebab House

Dizi (Abgoosht)

Dizi, a lamb, chickpea and potato stew served first as broth then pounded into a coarse paste at the table: a small individual stoneware crock filled with a pale golden broth, chunks of lamb, chickpeas and potato just visible beneath the surface.

Illustration

Time
4 hours

As tradition built it

Serves 4. 3 to 4 hours.

Ingredients

Method

  1. In a small stoneware crock or a heavy pot, combine the lamb, sliced onion, chickpeas, white beans, pierced dried limes, diced potato, tomato paste, turmeric and enough water to cover generously.
  2. Simmer, covered, at the barest bubble for three to four hours, until the meat is falling from the bone.
  3. To serve, pour the broth off into a separate bowl and eat it first with torn flatbread, tilit.
  4. Then pound the remaining solids, meat, beans, potato, in the pot itself with a hand masher, goosht-koob, into a coarse paste, seasoning at this point with a pinch of salt, and eat the pounded mixture with more bread, the diner completing the dish's own construction at the table.

What a modern chef changes

Rung 6

Method

  1. Cook the shank itself sous vide first, at a precise low temperature for several hours until properly tender but not yet falling apart, then finish it in the traditional broth for a shorter final simmer, so the meat's texture is controlled independently of the broth's own reduction rather than both happening at once and fighting each other.
  2. Follow Kerman's own boz ghormeh variant and fold kashk and a generous quantity of fried garlic through the pounded mixture at the table, rather than leaving it plain, a genuine regional practice rather than an invented flourish.
  3. Serve the poured-off broth first through a fine sieve for full clarity, a small, deliberate act of polish that changes nothing about the dish's substance but everything about how it reads on the plate.
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