Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Indian subcontinent · Volume 25, The Roasted Spice, the Palmyrah Coast and the Coral Atoll

Kottu roti

Matara or Batticaloa, contested

Kottu roti, chopped flatbread stir-fried with egg, vegetables and curry gravy: a loose, glistening mound of chopped, ribbon-like flatbread strips tossed with scrambled egg, shredded carrot and onion.

Illustration

Time
20 minutes

Genuinely contested origin, Matara against Batticaloa, named in full in the History section above. Chopped flatbread stir-fried on a flat griddle, traditionally to a rhythmic, percussive chop.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. 20 minutes, plus making the roti.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat a large flat griddle or wide pan with a little oil. Fry the onion, carrot and leek until softened.
  2. Push the vegetables aside, pour in the beaten egg, and scramble briefly.
  3. Add the chopped roti and cooked meat or vegetables, and, using two flat metal blades or spatulas, chop and toss everything together vigorously and continuously on the hot griddle, the rhythmic chopping motion that gives the dish its name.
  4. Season with the curry powder and salt, and moisten with a ladle of curry gravy, tossing until everything is evenly coated and heated through.
  5. Serve immediately, straight from the griddle.

What a modern chef changes

A gravy built specifically for this dish, not simply a leftover, and a chop that actually does the job the sound effect now fakes.

Rung 1

Method

  1. Reduce a portion of curry gravy specifically for this dish, concentrated further than it would be for eating alone, so it coats the roti rather than making the pan wet.
  2. Roast the curry powder used here fresh, per Rung 1, since kottu's high heat and short cooking time give a stale, unroasted powder nowhere to hide.
  3. Chop with real metal blades on real contact with the hot griddle, rather than relying on a pre-recorded chopping sound, since the genuine mechanical action, not just the noise, is what breaks the roti into the right texture and helps sear it against the metal.
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