Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Indian subcontinent · Volume 25, The Roasted Spice, the Palmyrah Coast and the Coral Atoll

String hoppers (idiyappam)

Pan Sri Lankan

String hoppers, pressed nests of steamed rice noodle: a stack of pale, tightly woven, translucent rice noodle nests, each a flattened disc of fine overlapping strands, arranged in a loose pile on a plate.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
10 minutes
Researched
No outside sources linked
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Pan Sri Lankan. Pressed nests of steamed rice noodle, the necessary partner to a thin coconut curry.

As tradition built it

Makes about 20 nests. 30 minutes to press, 5 to 10 minutes to steam.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the flour in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Pour in boiling water gradually, stirring with a spoon then kneading by hand once cool enough, until a soft, smooth, non-sticky dough forms.
  2. Pack the warm dough into a string hopper press (indiappa wangediya) fitted with its perforated disc.
  3. Press directly onto small, lightly oiled woven mats or a steamer tray in tight, overlapping circular nests.
  4. Steam for 5 to 10 minutes, until the strands look translucent and hold together when lifted.
  5. Serve warm with kiri hodi, a thin coconut milk curry, or alongside any of the curries in this chapter.

What a modern chef changes

An even steam, and a batter roasted properly rather than bought pre-roasted and stale.

Rung 1 (applied to the flour rather than a spice mix)

Method

  1. Toast the raw rice flour yourself in a dry pan over low heat before hydrating it, watching for the faintest colour change rather than leaving it raw, since pre-roasted commercial flour loses aroma with age on the shelf.
  2. Steam in a single even layer inside a bamboo or metal steamer with a tightly fitted lid, rather than stacking trays, for consistent cooking through every nest.
  3. Serve the moment they come off the steamer, since string hoppers firm and toughen quickly as they cool, a real, easily missed difference between a good plate and a merely adequate one.
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