Maritime Southeast Asia · Volume 51, The Black Broth, the Sultanate and a Cuisine the Rest of the Philippines Forgot
Piyanggang manok
Sulu Archipelago

Illustration
- Time
- 1 hour
- Researched
- 6 sources cited
Sulu Archipelago. Tausug. The chicken sibling of tiyula itum, sharing its burnt-coconut base, pamapa itum.
As tradition built it
Serves 4. Marinate 1 hour, cook around 25 minutes.
Ingredients
- 500 g chicken drumsticks
- 120 g pamapa itum (burnt coconut spice paste, see note)
- 15 ml oil
- 1 small onion, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 240 ml coconut cream
- 120 ml coconut milk
- as available lemongrass, optional
- 15 g red chilli, chopped
Method
- Coat the chicken thoroughly in the pamapa itum. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour.
- Heat the oil and sauté the onion and garlic 3 minutes.
- Stir in the coconut cream, coconut milk, lemongrass and chilli, then add the chicken. Simmer, covered, around 20 minutes, until cooked through and the sauce has thickened.
- Finish on a hot, oiled grill pan, 1 minute per side, then spoon the gravy back over to serve with steamed rice.
Notes
Pamapa itum is built the same way as tiyula itum's base above: charred coconut, ground fine, pounded together with turmeric, ginger, galangal, lemongrass, garlic and black pepper. No source consulted gives a single canonical ratio for the paste itself; build it to the proportions in the tiyula itum method above and adjust the chilli to taste.
What a modern chef changes
The same fire-then-liquid logic, run on live coals rather than a stovetop pan
Rungs 1, 2 and 3
Method
- Cook the chicken on a two-zone Big Green Egg fire: indirect first, coated in the pamapa itum, so it cooks through gently while taking on real wood smoke, then finished directly over the coals for the char a stovetop grill pan can only approximate.
- Blend the reduced coconut sauce in a high-power blender and pass it through a chinois, turning a loose gravy into a genuinely glossy, emulsified glaze that coats rather than pools.
- Marinate the chicken under vacuum rather than simply covered in the fridge, for faster, more even penetration of the pamapa itum on a tighter timeline.