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Maritime Southeast Asia · Volume 44, The Long Reduction, the Merantau Road and the Veranda of Mecca

Gulai ikan patin

Riau, the Minangkabau rantau

Gulai ikan patin, river catfish in a yellow turmeric coconut broth: large, bone-in pieces of pale catfish sitting in a shallow bowl of glossy, deep yellow turmeric broth, a few slices of red chilli and a sprig of lemongrass visible at the surface.

Illustration

Time
45 minutes
Researched
11 sources cited

A river dish: wild-caught freshwater catfish, left in large bone-in pieces, in a yellow, turmeric-forward broth.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. 45 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Grind the turmeric, chilli, garlic, ginger, galangal and candlenut to a paste and fry out until fragrant (Rung 2).
  2. Add the coconut milk and lemongrass, and bring to a gentle simmer.
  3. Add the catfish, kept in large pieces rather than filleted small, and simmer gently until just cooked through.
  4. Add asam kandis if a soured version is wanted, and season with salt.

What a modern chef changes

A clean, pourable curry, taken to its logical finish.

Rung 2

Method

  1. Grind the bumbu in the high-power blender and pass the finished sauce through a chinois before the fish goes back in, for a genuinely smooth, glossy broth: this is one of the wetter, cleaner-format dishes in this chapter where straining is an honest improvement, not a betrayal.
  2. Cook the fish sous vide separately, briefly, then reheat gently in the finished broth only at the last moment, protecting the large bone-in pieces from the risk of overcooking in an open simmer.
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