Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Maritime Southeast Asia · Volume 44, The Long Reduction, the Merantau Road and the Veranda of Mecca

Ayam pop

West Sumatra, from Bukittinggi

Ayam pop, pale poached and briefly fried chicken: pale, un-browned pieces of jointed chicken on a plate, notably lighter than typical fried chicken, a small dish of dark red sambal resting alongside for contrast.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
40 minutes
Researched
11 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Pale by design, not by failure: a poach in coconut water followed by the briefest possible fry, deliberately withholding the colour most Indonesian fried chicken chases.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. 40 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Simmer the chicken pieces in coconut water with garlic, bay leaf, lemongrass, galangal and salt until tender. No turmeric goes into this poach, which is the whole reason the finished chicken stays pale rather than turning the golden yellow of standard Padang fried chicken.
  2. Remove and drain the chicken thoroughly dry.
  3. Flash-fry in hot oil for thirty to forty seconds only, just long enough to firm and lightly set the exterior without colouring or drying it.
  4. Serve with sambal and the standard hidang spread.

What a modern chef changes

The same restraint, held under more precise control.

Method

  1. Poach sous vide in the coconut water at a fixed low temperature, for exact, repeatable doneness, protecting the meat's texture far more reliably than an open simmer.
  2. Flash-fry exactly as tradition demands, no longer. The technique this dish rewards is restraint, not addition; resist any temptation to brown it further for visual appeal, since that would simply remake it into a different, lesser dish.
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