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The Nordics and the Baltic · Volume 25, Rye, Manor and the Fast Night Table

Külmsupp / Aukstā zupa / Šaltibarščiai

Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania

Šaltibarščiai, külmsupp and aukstā zupa, the shared Baltic cold beetroot and kefir soup under three names: a vivid magenta pink soup filling a wide bowl, small pale flecks of chopped cucumber and dark green dill floating on the surface.

Illustration

Time
Hands on 20 minutes · Waiting 20 minutes

Shared across all three countries under three names, cold beetroot and cultured milk.

As tradition built it

Serves 3 to 4. About 20 minutes, plus 15 to 20 minutes resting in the fridge.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cut the beetroot (cooked or raw), cucumber, spring onion or chives and dill small.
  2. Dress with well-chilled kefir, buttermilk or soured milk, and salt to taste.
  3. Stir the hard-boiled egg through, or serve it alongside.
  4. Add a splash of vinegar or lemon if the beetroot isn't already pickled.
  5. Rest briefly in the fridge before serving.
  6. Serve with hot boiled potato on the side, the contrast of hot starch against cold, sharp soup being the point of the dish.

What a modern chef changes

An agar-clarified beetroot consommé with confit new potato

Rung 2

Method

  1. Clarify the beetroot into a translucent, deep magenta consommé using an agar clarification, rather than serving it opaque and grated.
  2. Whisk the clarified liquid together with the highest-fat, most actively live kefir available, judged by nose rather than a fixed rest time.
  3. Blend smooth and pass through a chinois.
  4. Cook a small new potato sous vide in duck fat at 85°C until tender, and serve it separately as the hot element for sharper contrast.
  5. Finish with a dill oil rather than chopped dill, for colour and aroma without the vegetal bulk.
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