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Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia · Volume 05, The Highlands, the Sepik and the Reef

Coconut kumu

The coast

Coconut kumu, greens cooked slowly in coconut cream with onion: a shallow bowl of dark green cooked leaves bound in a thickened pale coconut cream, a few translucent strands of softened onion visible throughout.

Illustration

Time
15 minutes
Researched
1 source cited

As tradition built it

Serves 4 as a side. About 15 minutes.

Ingredients

  • 400 g aibika or other kumu greens, torn (callaloo or Swiss chard are the closest widely available UK substitutes, see Sourcing in Britain)
  • 300 ml coconut cream
  • 1 small onion, finely sliced
  • to taste salt

Method

  1. Soften the onion gently in a little of the coconut cream over low heat, about 5 minutes.
  2. Add the remaining coconut cream and bring to a bare simmer, never a boil.
  3. Add the greens and cook, stirring, until just wilted and the cream has thickened slightly around them, 5 to 7 minutes.
  4. Season with salt and serve as a side to fish or pork.

What a modern chef changes

The greens' texture protected the way any properly cooked vegetable's should be

Rung 4

Method

  1. Blanch the greens separately for under a minute and shock in iced water, as in the kaukau na kumu elevation above, then fold them into the already-finished coconut sauce off the heat, rather than cooking them inside the simmering cream from raw, which prevents the slightly slick, overcooked texture a mucilaginous green like aibika or callaloo can take on with prolonged heat.
  2. Finish the sauce with a spoon of the pressed coconut cream from the fish dish above, uncooked, stirred through at the very end, for a fresher, less flattened coconut flavour than a cream that has been simmering the whole time.
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