Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia · Volume 13, One Reef, Two Flags

Eke

The Cook Islands

Eke, Cook Islands octopus curried in coconut milk: tender curled pieces of octopus in a thick pale yellow coconut and turmeric sauce, glossy and reduced, served in a dark bowl beside a mound of white rice.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
Not statedNo source states a time and the atlas has too few comparable dishes to estimate one.
Researched
17 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Octopus finely chopped, boiled 15 to 20 minutes with onion, drained; returned to the pot with coconut cream, roughly 2 cups for one octopus, 2 to 3 grated garlic cloves, salt, and, in one version, turmeric and curry powder; simmered until the sauce thickens and the octopus is tender. Served with rice, taro or breadfruit. [thecoconet.tv, credited to named cooks Kura Happ and Tekura & Ngatipa Ruaporo]

As tradition built it

Octopus boiled 15 to 20 minutes, then simmered until tender.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Boil finely chopped octopus with onion for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain.
  2. Return to the pot with coconut cream, roughly 2 cups per octopus, grated garlic, salt, turmeric and curry powder.
  3. Simmer until the sauce thickens and the octopus is tender. Serve with rice, taro or breadfruit.

Notes

Credited to named Cook Islands cooks Kura Happ and Tekura & Ngatipa Ruaporo.

What a modern chef changes

The octopus's own texture chemistry treated properly, since the traditional method's biggest risk is toughness, not flavour.

No single named rung, a straightforward technique correction.

Method

  1. Sous vide the octopus low and slow until genuinely tender before it ever meets the coconut sauce, since a simmered-through octopus and a properly tenderised one are very different textures, and the traditional 15 to 20 minute boil is working against, not with, the muscle's own chemistry.
  2. Reduce the coconut cream and spices to a proper sauce separately, spice-grinding the turmeric and curry spice fresh rather than from a pre-mixed jar, then toss the finished tender octopus through it briefly at the end rather than simmering it in from the start.
  3. Serve the taro or breadfruit accompaniment roasted on the Big Green Egg rather than boiled, for the same smoky counterpoint recommended for ika mata above.
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