Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia · Volume 05, The Highlands, the Sepik and the Reef

Fish wrapped in banana leaf, grilled

The coast

Reef fish wrapped in banana leaf and grilled, lime and ginger tucked inside: a whole small fish parcel wrapped in a charred banana leaf, partly unwrapped at one end to reveal pale flaking fish flesh and a slice of lime.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
20 minutes
Researched
1 source cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

This is the coast's dry-heat answer to the earth oven above: a single leaf parcel rather than a shared pit, cooked in minutes over an open fire rather than hours underground.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 20 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Season the fish inside and out with salt, and tuck the lime and ginger slices into the cavity or against the fillet.
  2. Wrap each portion tightly in banana leaf, securing with a skewer or a strip of the leaf itself.
  3. Grill directly over hot coals, turning once, roughly 6 to 8 minutes per side depending on thickness, until the fish is just cooked through and the outer leaf is charred and fragrant.
  4. Unwrap at the table, so the aroma the leaf has trapped is released in front of whoever is eating it.

What a modern chef changes

The leaf's steam-and-char effect controlled precisely rather than left to an open fire

Rung 3

Method

  1. Cook the wrapped parcel directly on the deflector-plate side of a Big Green Egg at a steady 200°C, rather than over open flame, which chars the leaf's surface at a controlled, repeatable rate instead of the more variable scorch an open fire produces, while still trapping the same internal steam.
  2. Brush the outside of the leaf lightly with oil before it goes over heat, since a dry leaf can catch and flare before the fish inside is cooked, where a lightly oiled one chars evenly instead.
  3. Rest the unopened parcel for 2 minutes off the heat before serving, giving the trapped steam a moment to finish carrying its last heat through the fish gently, rather than cutting straight into it and losing that residual cooking.
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