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The Andes · Volume 21, Colombia, the Andean Interior

Arepa paisa

Antioquia, Colombia

Arepa paisa, a thin white griddled corn flatbread: a small stack of pale, thin, round white corn arepas, each lightly speckled with brown griddle marks on both faces, nothing else on the plate.

Illustration

Time
24 hours

As tradition built it

Arepa paisa

Makes 20. The maize soaks a day.

Ingredients

The arepas

  • 900g maíz trillado (hulled white maize)
  • as needed water
  • to taste, optional salt

To finish

  • to serve butter
  • to serve salt
  • to serve cheese, sliced or grated

Method

  1. Soak the maize for a day.
  2. Cook it over a medium heat until soft, but not too soft.
  3. Drain it and grind it to a smooth dough. Knead it until it holds together, so the arepas do not crack when shaped.
  4. Divide it into equal balls and flatten them thin and round.
  5. Cook them on a preheated wire grill or metal plate, over charcoal or an electric ring, about 2 minutes, turning them so they do not burn.
  6. Spread them with butter, salt them, and top with cheese. Eat them hot.

Notes

The truest traditional version carries no salt or other ingredient at all.

The recipe is Sandra Patricia Romero's, for El Campesino, which allows salt or ground cheese in the dough. El Tiempo's 1995 account of the thin arepa, the tela, says the authentic one has nothing in the dough: the maize is cooked several hours, and the salt goes on after, with the butter and cheese.

What a modern chef changes

Plancha-Griddled, Hogao Alongside

Method

  1. Grind the cooked maíz trillado more finely and evenly in a high-power blender, without changing the recipe's own deliberate lack of salt or fat.
  2. Griddle the arepa on the Big Green Egg run as a plancha, its steady, even, high heat closer to the traditional wood-fired budare's real temperature than most domestic hobs reach.
  3. Serve alongside a small dish of hogao reduced through a chinois to a fine, glossy consistency, an accompaniment rather than a change to the arepa itself.
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