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The Andes · Volume 21, Colombia, the Andean Interior

Buñuelos and Natilla

Colombia, nationwide

Buñuelos and natilla, fried cheese fritters with a set spiced custard: a small stack of golden brown, cracked surface cheese fritters beside a shallow bowl of pale, thick, set custard dusted lightly with cinnamon.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
1 hour
Researched
Researched from 130 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Buñuelos and natilla, Christmas Eve's inseparable pair

About 1 hour, plus setting time for the natilla.

Ingredients

Buñuelos

Natilla

Method

Buñuelos

  1. Mix the grated fresh cheese, cornstarch and cassava starch with sugar, baking powder and salt to a smooth, even dough.
  2. Rest the dough 15 minutes.
  3. Roll into walnut-sized balls and deep-fry until golden outside and cooked through, roughly 5 to 7 minutes.

Natilla

  1. Dissolve the cornstarch in a portion of cold milk.
  2. Heat the remaining milk, roughly 750ml, with the grated panela, cloves, cinnamon and a pinch of bicarbonate and salt until the panela fully dissolves without the milk boiling.
  3. Stir in the cornstarch slurry gradually, whisking continuously until the whole pan sets to a soft, sliceable custard as it cools.

Notes

Natilla here is distinguished from Spanish natilla by carrying no egg at all.

What a modern chef changes

Probe-Fried, Sous Vide Infused

Method

Buñuelos

  1. Hold the buñuelo dough exactly as tradition mixes it, since the balance of cheese and two starches is already a precise, working formula.
  2. Control the frying temperature with a probe rather than by eye, for a more consistent batch-to-batch result across a full plate of buñuelos.

Natilla

  1. Infuse the cinnamon and cloves in the milk under gentle sous vide heat before building the custard conventionally on the stove.
  2. Pass the finished custard through a chinois before it sets, for a genuinely silken natilla with none of the occasional graininess a hand-whisked version can carry.
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