Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

North America · Volume 38, The Curd, the Cure and the Sugar Bush

Montreal bagel

Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Montreal bagel, honey water boiled and wood fired: a small stack of dense, glossy, deeply browned bagel rings with a narrow centre hole, thickly crusted in toasted sesame seeds.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
Not statedNo source states a time and the atlas has too few comparable dishes to estimate one.
Researched
Researched from 80 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Montreal bagel

About 10 minutes kneading, a 1 to 2 minute poach and 18 to 23 minutes baking.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix a dough of roughly 350 g flour, 1 tsp instant yeast, 4 tsp salt, 2 tbsp liquid honey and around 300 ml water and knead, by hand or on a low mixer speed, for about ten minutes.
  2. Shape by hand into rings, distinctly denser and less puffy than a New York bagel dough.
  3. Poach the rings in a large pot of water sweetened with honey, roughly 40 ml honey to every litre, for one to two minutes, flipping once, until they just begin to rise back to the surface.
  4. Lift out and bake at around 220°C (425°F) for eighteen to twenty-three minutes until deeply browned, traditionally in a wood-fired oven that Fairmount and St-Viateur both still run, at least in part, today.

What a modern chef changes

Concentrated poaching honey, applewood for aroma not heat, freshly ground seed

Method

  1. Dehydrate a portion of the poaching honey down to a thin syrup in the dehydrator before the poach itself, then fold it back into the poaching water, concentrating the same sweetness the tradition already relies on rather than adding a new flavour.
  2. Bake on a Big Green Egg set up for indirect, high heat with a small chunk of applewood added purely for aroma rather than for heat, mirroring the genuine finding behind St-Viateur's own modern oven, that the wood's job is flavour, not primary heat.
  3. Finish with a light pass of toasted sesame or poppy seed ground briefly in the spice grinder rather than left whole, releasing more of their own oil onto the crust in the last few minutes of baking than a whole seed ever gives up on its own.
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