Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

North America · Volume 38, The Curd, the Cure and the Sugar Bush

Poutine

Quebec, Canada

Poutine, double fried potato with fresh cheese curds and gravy: a tangle of golden double fried potato batons piled high on a plate, glossy dark brown gravy pooling and dripping down through the fries.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
30 minutes
Researched
Researched from 80 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Poutine

About 45 minutes, including a 15 to 30 minute rest between the two fries.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cut russet potatoes into batons and double-fry them: a first fry at roughly 150°C to cook the potato through without colouring it, rested fifteen to thirty minutes.
  2. A second fry at roughly 185 to 190°C to crisp and colour the outside.
  3. Dissolve 2 tbsp cornstarch in 2 tbsp water for the gravy.
  4. Melt 6 tbsp unsalted butter, then cook 1/4 cup flour into it for about five minutes until golden.
  5. Cook 2 chopped garlic cloves for thirty seconds.
  6. Bring two 284 ml cans of beef broth and one 284 ml can of chicken broth, both undiluted, to the boil.
  7. Stir the cornstarch slurry through and simmer three to five minutes to thicken; season with pepper to taste. Yields roughly one litre.
  8. Scatter fresh, squeaky cheddar cheese curds, made that same day and never refrigerated, generously over the hot fries.
  9. Pour the hot gravy over immediately, melting the curd's surface just enough to soften it without fully liquefying it, so the outside turns creamy while the centre stays firm.

What a modern chef changes

Sous vide potato, clarified gravy, curd held at the edge of melting

Cross-references Rung 3 (cheese curd's calcium-dependent squeak).

Method

  1. Cook the potato batons sous vide first, at a precise low temperature that cooks them through with total evenness before either fry ever touches them, then chill and dry them thoroughly so the two-stage fry becomes purely a crisping and colouring job rather than a cooking one.
  2. Reduce the finished gravy a shade further in a wide pan and pass it through a chinois for total clarity, so the sauce's own body comes from a proper reduction rather than only from the cornstarch.
  3. Warm the curds very gently, not melting them, in a low oven for exactly the few minutes it takes the fries to finish their second fry, so the gravy meets a curd that is already at the very edge of its own melting point rather than starting from cold.
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