Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Korea and Japan · Volume 53, The Grill, the Broth and the Sealed Port

Sapporo miso ramen

Hokkaido

Sapporo miso ramen: a deep ceramic bowl of cloudy amber miso broth, curly yellow noodles coiled beneath the surface, a small golden pat of butter melting slowly on top.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
6 hours
Researched
Researched from 87 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Credited to Omiya Morito of Aji no Sanpei, Susukino, who developed the dish in 1954 on the belief that miso was good for the body; the shop still trades on the same site.

As tradition built it

Per bowl; scale up as needed. Broth simmered 4 to 6 hours.

Ingredients

For the tare, per bowl

For the broth

To finish

Method

  1. Fry the minced garlic and ginger briefly in lard until fragrant, then stir in the miso, loosened with a splash of the pork or chicken broth, for the tare.
  2. Build the broth from a simple pork bone and chicken carcass stock, simmered gently four to six hours, then strain.
  3. Cook the noodles to packet timing.
  4. Combine the tare in the bottom of the bowl with hot broth.
  5. Add the noodles.
  6. Top with stir fried bean sprouts and minced pork cooked in the same garlic and ginger fat, a pat of butter, and sweetcorn kernels, Hokkaido's own two signature additions.

What a modern chef changes

Shio koji in the tare, a controlled emulsion in the broth

Rungs 1 and 6

Method

  1. Ferment a small batch of shio koji at home over five days and use it in place of a portion of the miso in the tare, for a rounder, less salt forward depth.
  2. Build the broth at a gentle simmer for the first four hours for clean extraction, then finish with a hard rolling boil for the final 90 minutes only, so the finished stock carries body without turning the whole broth cloudy and heavy.
  3. Brown the butter in a small pan until it smells of hazelnut before it goes into the bowl, rather than added cold.
  4. Finish with a shaving of aged Hokkaido style cheddar from a UK artisan dairy in place of a plain pat of butter, dairy leaned on hard, taken one step further than the original dish ever did.
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