Mainland Brazil · Volume 40, Caatinga, Vaqueiro and the Salt-Cured Table
Bode assado, in the manta de bode tradition
São Francisco Sertão, Brazil

Illustration
- Researched
- Researched from 21 sources in the brief
As tradition built it
Manta de bode, and bode assado
Ingredients
The tradition's method, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them.
- whole goat carcass
- to taste salt
- for frying pork lard, for bode à pururuca
- as available rice, for arroz caldoso
Method
- Debone the goat carcass and open it flat like a sheet, in exactly the family of technique carne de sol and charque share.
- Salt and sun-dry the flattened carcass, historically a specialised, apprenticed skill within a family.
- From the preserved base, cook arroz caldoso, rice cooked with the reconstituted dried meat, or bode à pururuca, fried crisp in pork lard.
- Where goat is eaten fresh rather than preserved, simply roast it, at any meal including breakfast.
Notes
Documented specifically among Fundo de Pasto communities of the São Francisco sertão.
What a modern chef changes
Portioned first, preserved or roasted by cut
Method
- Portion the goat first rather than drying a whole flattened carcass over days in open sun, and treat each cut on its own terms.
- Give leaner cuts a light, controlled dry-cure and dehydrator finish to mimic manta's texture and concentration of flavour without its real drying-time risk.
- Give cuts better eaten fresh a straightforward slow roast, finished hard over coals.
Notes
The point of the elevation is not to abandon preservation as a flavour, since the concentrated, slightly mineral character of dried goat is worth keeping, but to get there by a controlled route rather than an open-air one.