Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Iberia · Volume 04, The Cider and Cod Coast

Cocido Montañés

Cantabria

Cocido montanes, a Cantabrian white bean, cabbage and pork stew: a rustic bowl of pale white beans and deep green shredded cabbage in a light broth, sliced chorizo, morcilla, pork rib and tocino arranged over the top rather than stirred through.

Illustration

Time
Hands on 2 hours 30 · Waiting 8 hours
Researched
16 sources cited

Compango of chorizo, costilla, morcilla and tocino cooked separately from the white beans and berza cabbage, then combined and served together in one bowl, unlike Madrid's cocido, where broth, vegetables and meats are traditionally served as separate courses.

As tradition built it

Serves 6. About 2.5 hours, plus overnight soaking.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cook the alubias blancas in fresh water at a bare simmer until nearly tender, per Rung 6.
  2. In a separate pot, cook the compango, chorizo, costilla, morcilla and tocino, in water until tender.
  3. Blanch the berza separately, then add it to the beans for the final 20 minutes of their cooking.
  4. Combine the beans, cabbage and sliced meats in one bowl to serve, unlike Madrid's cocido.

What a modern chef changes

The compango's individual textures kept distinct rather than muddied together.

Rung 6

Method

  1. Hold the bean pot at the same fixed, low simmer as Dish 8, for the same reason.
  2. Sear the costilla briefly before its long simmer, a small addition of Rung 2's logic to a dish that does not otherwise use ember heat, for a deeper flavour under the broth.
  3. Plate the compango sliced and arranged, rather than stirred through, so a guest sees the stew's actual components before they merge on the plate, a presentation choice rather than a change to the cooking itself.
Open in the atlas: cook mode, scaling and tick off lists