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Iberia · Volume 04, The Cider and Cod Coast

Kokotxas al Pil-Pil

Basque Country

Kokotxas al pil-pil, gelatinous hake throats emulsified in olive oil: a shallow terracotta dish of pale, gelatinous hake throats coated in a thick, ivory emulsified sauce, its surface faintly glossy and trembling.

Illustration

Time
30 minutes
Researched
16 sources cited

The gelatinous throat or chin cut of hake, cod or monkfish. Prepared al pil-pil, using the same gelatine-emulsion logic as the cod dish above, or in salsa verde, a parsley-based green sauce.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 30 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Warm the olive oil gently with the garlic and guindilla until the garlic just colours.
  2. Lower the heat until the oil barely trembles, add the kokotxas, skin down.
  3. Cook gently, shaking the pan continuously in the gupilada motion, until the gelatine emulsifies into the oil, 8 to 10 minutes.
  4. Serve immediately from the pan.

What a modern chef changes

The same precision built into Dish 1, scaled down for a more delicate cut.

Rung 1

Method

  1. Hold the kokotxas briefly in a lower sous vide bath, around 55°C, before the final pan emulsification, since this cut is more delicate than a full cod loin and tolerates less direct heat before toughening.
  2. Reserve gelatinous liquid for an emergency re-emulsification exactly as in Dish 1.
  3. Serve over a small spoon of strained yoghurt-free aioli, a light textural contrast rather than a competing sauce.
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