Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Iberia · Volume 04, The Cider and Cod Coast

Marmitako

Basque Country and Cantabria

Marmitako, a Basque fisherman's tuna, potato and pepper stew: a rustic stew in a dark, deep pot, chunks of rosy pink tuna resting on torn, starch softened potatoes in a thick, brick red pimenton and tomato broth.

Illustration

Time
45 minutes
Researched
16 sources cited

Traditionally made aboard boats in a marmita hung over the fire, using bonito del norte caught in summer, which is why this is a summer dish. Cantabria's own version, marmita or marmita cántabra, uses whatever whitefish was to hand, hake, monkfish or sole preferred.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 45 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Sofrito the onion, pepper and garlic in olive oil until soft.
  2. Stir in the pimentón briefly, then the tomato, and cook down, 10 minutes.
  3. Add the potato, "chascada," torn rather than cleanly cut so it releases starch into the broth, and the fish stock.
  4. Simmer until the potato is tender, 20 minutes.
  5. Add the bonito del norte only in the final few minutes, 3 to 4 minutes, to avoid overcooking it, and rest briefly before serving.

What a modern chef changes

The fish's texture protected from the pot's residual heat.

Rung 2

Method

  1. Sear the tuna chunks briefly over live oak ember before adding them to the pot, giving the surface a restrained smoke character in the spirit of Rung 2, rather than cooking the fish entirely inside the broth.
  2. Finish the broth with a spoonful of aioli whisked in off the heat, a modern enrichment that plays on the same emulsion logic as pil-pil without pretending to be pil-pil itself.
  3. Serve the fish rested on top rather than submerged, so the ember character is not immediately steamed away by the hot broth beneath it.
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