Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Slavic east and the Balkans · Volume 27, Steppe, Forest and the Reclaimed Kitchen

Salo

Ukraine

Salo, paper-thin slices of cured and cold-smoked pork back fat, draped over dark rye bread with raw garlic and mustard: several translucent, ivory-white slices of pork back fat draped loosely over two thick slices of very dark rye bread, a faint golden tinge along one edge of the fat from smoking.

Illustration

Researched
Researched from 89 sources in the brief

Fresh pork back fat dry-cured with coarse salt, garlic, black pepper and bay leaf, packed under and over the fat, rested three to four days in a non-metal container per rung two. Sliced thin and eaten on black bread with raw garlic and mustard, or rendered into shkvarky, crisp-fried cubes, to top banosh and other dishes.

As tradition built it

Cured 3 to 4 days.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Dry-cure the pork back fat with coarse salt, garlic, black pepper and bay leaf, packed under and over the fat.
  2. Rest three to four days in a non-metal container, per rung two.
  3. Slice thin and eat on black bread with raw garlic and mustard, or render into shkvarky, crisp-fried cubes, to top banosh and other dishes.

What a modern chef changes

Cold-smoked over beech, sliced to order

Rungs 2 and 4

Method

  1. Cure the fat as tradition dictates, per rung two.
  2. Cold-smoke it whole on the Big Green Egg over beechwood for several hours at a genuinely low, controlled dome temperature, per rung four, a step traditional salo does not use but which suits the reader's own kit precisely.
  3. Slice it paper-thin on a dedicated meat slicer rather than by hand.
  4. Serve it draped, not stacked, over toasted black rye with a dill-and-horseradish crème rather than plain raw garlic, the horseradish freshly ground per the sourcing section below since its flavour fades within minutes.
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