Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Britain and Ireland · Volume 37, South Asian and Caribbean Britain

Rice and Peas

Jamaica, and every Windrush household's own Sunday dish

Rice and peas, coconut rice with kidney beans: a mound of pale ivory rice speckled with dark reddish brown kidney beans, piled in a plain bowl, a faint sheen from coconut milk.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
1 hour
Researched
4 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Jamaica, and every Windrush household's own Sunday dish. Kidney beans, coconut milk, and the meal that made a foreign kitchen feel like home again.

As tradition built it

Serves 6. About 1 hour, plus soaking if using dried beans.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Combine the coconut milk, reserved bean liquid, spring onion, garlic and thyme in a large pot, and bring to a simmer.
  2. Add the kidney beans, and simmer 10 minutes to let the flavours combine.
  3. Stir in the rice, and add water if needed so the liquid sits about 2cm above the rice.
  4. Add the whole scotch bonnet, unpierced so it perfumes rather than overwhelms with heat, and season with the salt and black pepper.
  5. Bring to the boil, then cover and reduce to the lowest simmer, 18 to 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed.
  6. Remove the scotch bonnet before serving, fluffing the rice through.

What a modern chef changes

The same dish, built with more control over how the coconut milk and rice actually cook together.

Kit note, not tied to a numbered rung.

Method

  1. Toast the rinsed rice briefly in a little oil before any liquid goes in, sealing the grain's surface so it holds together and separates cleanly rather than turning starchy and clumped.
  2. Cook the beans and coconut milk base in a pressure cooker first, exactly as Windrush households themselves adopted the technology to make a weeknight version of this dish possible, then finish the rice conventionally, a genuine continuity with the original domestic technique rather than an imported shortcut.
  3. Rest the covered pot off the heat for a full 10 minutes once the liquid is absorbed, letting the rice finish steaming gently rather than catching on the base from residual direct heat.
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