Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Britain and Ireland · Volume 37, South Asian and Caribbean Britain

Onion Bhaji

British curry house

Onion bhaji, deep fried gram flour and onion fritters: a small pile of irregular, deep golden brown fritters with a craggy, crisp fried surface, piled loosely on brown paper, a small dish of dark green mint chutney alongside.

Illustration

Time
20 minutes
Researched
4 sources cited

The curry house starter, deep-fried gram flour and onion, built for a menu's opening course.

As tradition built it

Serves 4 as a starter. About 20 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix the gram flour with the cumin, coriander, turmeric, chilli powder and salt.
  2. Add the sliced onion and coriander, and mix thoroughly by hand, working the onion until it releases enough moisture to bind the mixture.
  3. Add a little water only if needed, to a thick, just-holding batter clinging to the onion rather than a smooth batter drowning it.
  4. Heat oil to 180°C, and drop in rough tablespoons of the mixture.
  5. Fry 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, until deep golden brown and crisp.
  6. Drain, and serve hot with mint or tamarind chutney.

What a modern chef changes

The same batter, fried to hold its crispness longer than a curry house's fast turnover ever needs to manage.

Kit note, not tied to a numbered rung.

Method

  1. Rest the onion and salt together for 15 minutes before adding the gram flour, drawing out more of the onion's own moisture in a controlled way rather than relying on hand-mixing alone.
  2. Fry once at a lower temperature to cook through, rest, then fry again briefly at a higher temperature to crisp, a double-fry discipline borrowed from nowhere in this cuisine specifically but genuinely useful wherever a fritter needs to survive longer than a few minutes on a plate before eating.
  3. Drain standing on a wire rack rather than kitchen paper, so steam escapes downward instead of softening the base.
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