Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Aotearoa and Australia · Volume 01, Fire, the Stone Trap and the Reef Garden

Namas

Torres Strait

Namas, Torres Strait raw fish cured in citrus: thin, translucent slices of pale fish arranged on a dark plate, glistening with citrus juice, the flesh visibly opaque at the edges where the citrus has cured it.

Illustration

Time
30 minutes
Researched
22 sources cited

Fish cured raw in citrus acid rather than heat, another of Evelyn Billy's named dishes, and, on the evidence this atlas has already gathered across its Pacific volumes, a genuine relative of poisson cru, kokoda and ika mata, the same technique family under different island names.

As tradition built it

Serves 10 to 15 · 30 minutes

Ingredients

The method as the tradition gives it, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them, lead dishes first.

Method

  1. Fish sliced thin, covered in citrus juice, left to cure until the flesh turns opaque.

What a modern chef changes

Citrus as the controlled cooking medium

Rung 6

Method

  1. Extract a clean, pulp-free citrus juice through a chinois, controlling exactly how much acid reaches the fish rather than relying on a hand-squeezed juice's inconsistency.
  2. Time the cure precisely, tasting at intervals, since citrus curing is a real cooking process with a real endpoint, not an indefinite marinade.
  3. Serve immediately once cured, as tradition already does, rather than holding the dish and letting the citrus continue working past its best point.
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