Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia · Volume 12, The Umu, the Mission and the Sunday Table

ʻOtai

Tonga

ʻotai, Tongan watermelon and coconut drink: a tall glass filled with pale pink, finely crushed watermelon and coconut, flecks of white coconut flesh suspended through it.

Illustration

Time
5 minutes

Documented in diaspora at Simiz Kai Lelei, East Palo Alto, where it is made with Cool Whip in place of fresh coconut cream, a detail worth keeping for what it shows about a household adapting a traditional recipe to American supermarket stock. Redwood City Pulse, "Simiz Kai Lelei brings Tongan and Samoan flavors to East Palo Alto and beyond"

As tradition built it

About 5 minutes, no cooking

Ingredients

The tradition's method, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them.

Method

  1. Grate the watermelon and the coconut.
  2. Mix all the ingredients together and stir.
  3. Add ice if you like.

Notes

The recipe is Lavinia Uhila, Nastassia Wolfgramm and Chef Sio's, Tongan Taste on The Coconet. The Coconet's other 'otai, from I Love Coconut Cream, scrapes a whole watermelon and a mango into a punch bowl with crushed pineapple, a tin of coconut milk and about 3 cups of cold water. Both grate or scrape by hand.

What a modern chef changes

Our own technique work, since no chef-driven precedent for ʻotai was found in this research.

Method

  1. Freeze the watermelon and coconut mixture into a granita, scraping with a fork every 30 minutes as it sets, rather than serving it as a crushed-ice drink.
  2. Dehydrate a portion of thin-sliced watermelon separately for a crisp garnish shard, a texture contrast the drink form does not offer.
  3. Serve in a chilled glass with the granita and the dehydrated shard together, keeping the watermelon-and-coconut flavour pairing exact while changing its form entirely.

Notes

No numbered rung; offered as original chapter work rather than attributed reportage.

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