Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia · Volume 12, The Umu, the Mission and the Sunday Table

Palusami

Samoa

Palusami, Samoan coconut cream baked in a double wrap of taro leaf: a plump, dark green parcel of baked taro leaf split open on a dark plate, revealing a thick, glossy white coconut cream curd studded with flecks of onion.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
1 hour
Researched
29 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Coconut cream, onion and sometimes corned beef are wrapped inside young, tender taro leaves, themselves parcelled inside a second, tougher outer layer, and baked in the umu or a conventional oven until the leaf has softened fully and the cream inside has set into a rich curd. No source found in this research gives an exact leaf count or a precise ratio of cream to leaf from a named Samoan cook; this chapter reports the documented mechanism honestly rather than inventing a false-precision recipe. Polynesian Cultural Center, "Easy Palusami Recipe", used here only for mechanics, not cultural interpretation, since it is a Laie, Hawaii tourist attraction rather than a Samoan cultural authority.

As tradition built it

About 1 hour

Ingredients

Method

  1. Select young, tender taro leaves for the inner wrapping and tougher, larger leaves for the outer layer.
  2. Fill the inner leaves with coconut cream, finely diced onion, and, if using, corned beef.
  3. Fold the inner leaves closed around the filling, then wrap the whole parcel in the outer, tougher leaves.
  4. Bake in the umu, or a conventional oven, for around an hour, until the leaf has fully softened and the coconut cream has set.

What a modern chef changes

After Michael Meredith at Metita and Monica Galetti at Mere, both of whom kept the leaf-and-cream parcel structurally exact while changing what it accompanies.

Rungs 3 and 4

Method

  1. Blanch and shock the inner leaves properly, timed rather than eyeballed, before they ever meet the filling. Rung 3.
  2. Treat the finished parcel as a modular component, built to sit beside a single named protein, whether a rib eye or a piece of offal, rather than only as the traditional whole-dish, family-style format.
  3. Reduce the coconut cream slightly before it goes into the parcel, a small departure from the raw-pour tradition, giving a single-portion plate a slightly more concentrated curd once baked. Rung 4.

Notes

At Metita, palusami is served as the accompaniment to a 900-gram Royalburn Station beef rib eye rather than as its own communal dish, the parcel's structural content unchanged. Broadsheet, "Metita" At Mere in Fitzrovia, now closed, Monica Galetti's version incorporated roasted veal sweetbread and smoky Morteau sausage into the taro-leaf-and-coconut-cream base, French charcuterie folded into an unchanged Samoan structural method rather than the other way round. Dinner and a Movie, "Mere Restaurant from Monica Galetti"

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