Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mesoamerica · Volume 01, The Highland Mole and Maize World

Mole Poblano

Puebla, Mexico

Mole poblano, a dark chile, chocolate and spice sauce over turkey: a deep reddish brown, glossy sauce ladled generously over a piece of turkey or chicken, the surface faintly sheened with rendered fat.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
4 hours 30
Researched
Researched from 103 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Mole poblano

Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's recipe, via Larousse Cocina . Serves 24 . 4 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

Method

  1. Clean the three chiles of seed and vein, then fry and grind each variety separately.
  2. Toast and grind the almonds, peanuts, pecans, pepitas and sesame separately.
  3. Cook down the tomato, tomatillo, fried plantain and raisins separately.
  4. Toast and grind the whole cloves, black pepper, allspice, cumin, anise, cinnamon, thyme and oregano with the roasted garlic, separately again.
  5. Build up each stage in turn with repeated additions of stock and lard.
  6. Combine everything and simmer long, working the four litres of chicken stock through the process across every stage. This is several separate preparations, each correct on its own terms, brought together only at the end.

What a modern chef changes

Chile fidelity, chinois, controlled heat

Rungs 02, 04

Method

  1. Dry and grind each chile variety separately in a dehydrator and spice grinder rather than soaking all three together, so mulato’s chocolate note, pasilla’s raisin depth and ancho’s fruit each register distinctly rather than blurring into one generic “mole chile” flavour.
  2. Pass the finished purée through a chinois after the high-power blender, for a texture no home blender achieves alone, closer to what a metate’s slow grind would give without the multi-hour labour.
  3. Hold the final simmer in a low, steady oven or a sous vide-adjacent water bath rather than a stovetop, where the risk of scorching a two-day investment in its last twenty minutes is real and avoidable.

Stop 1 on the chilli's route

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